Hello Fellow Dronerz,
Today I am going to show you how to mod/upgrade your JXD 509G/510G Camera Lens to an 808 #16 D to increase the FOV (Field of View).
Please Note: This mod should also work with any of the 509 / 510 series (509V, 509W, 510V, and 510W), as they all appear to use the same lens. Can anyone please confirm?
Mod Difficulty: Intermediate
Mod Time: 30 to 60 Minutes
First, the stock lens has an approximately 50° FOV (field of view), which is too narrow for any decent FPV flight. You need to fly very slow in order to avoid crashing into objects just outside the FOV.
Second, you can not adjust the camera’s angle any higher then about -10°. This further compacts the original FOV limitation, making most of the video a really good view of the ground below instead of the view in front. You need to fly very slow to avoid additional pitch.
This mod will more than double the FOV to approximately 120°.
So by design, the flight style of the JXD 509G is more of a precision style then freestyle. See my full write up on Drone Flight Styles here:
Drone Flight Styles: Freestyle vs. Precision
If you have had this drone for a while, and are looking into getting more into freestyle flight then precision flight, then this mod will definitely help. Otherwise, if you are flying LoS (line of site), and just use the screen to line up shots, then it is probably not necessary.
See my full review of the 509G here: JXD 509G Review
First, you will need to order a lens. This lens is for a key chain camera, so it has a shorter ribbon cable and comes with a key chain case tooled to fit the 808 #16 D Lens. You can simply toss the case, as it is not needed for this mod.
Please note, as the FOV of this lens exceeds 100°, you will notice a bit of a Full-Frame Fisheye Effect. Also, I have noticed that depending on brightness, the sky can get a bit of an orange hue to it, and people can get a bit of a blue tint to their skin. So again, if you are more into precision flight, and want clean photos and video, this mod may not be for you.
|808 #16 D Lens
Buy Now: $16.59 from Amazon
Buy Now: $10.99 from BangGood
Disclaimer: Proceed at your own risk. I only recommend trying this if you have experience fidgeting and tinkering with small gadgets, parts, electronics, etc… I will not be held responsible if you somehow damage or destroy your drone during this process. I will however, be more then happy to provide suggestions should you get stuck.
Here are the tools you will need for this project:
Diagonal Pliers (Pair of Dikes / Wire Cutters)
Micro Philips Head Screw Driver (Plus Driver)
First, remove the screw holding the camera pod together.
Then, remove the 4 screws holding the main case together.
You can see the difference in length between the two cables.
Push the black locking tab out/away from the circuit board.
Make sure you insert the cable with the copper pads facing down (facing the circuit board).
Notice the camera lens is facing down with the circuit board right side up. Make sure you press the black locking tab back into place to secure the cable.
Now, before we go any further, it is time for a quick test. As the next steps involve cutting/removing plastic from the main case, which is permanent. I guess you could put it back together with some duct tape and supper glue. But why would you want to?
As for the test, success. However, I have some good news, and some bad news. The good news is, it works. Can you tell what the bad news is? Hint, it involves orientation.
Okay, so the drone is upside down, and the display is right side up. Bummer, but not the end of the world.
So that leaves us with 3 options.
1. Stop now, and put everything back together the way it was (Really? That’s no fun).
2. Continue with the basic modification, meaning you won’t be able to snap the camera back on the drone the right way. You will need to use rubber bands, Velcro tape, or something similar to hold the camera in place. However, if you are using a custom anti-jello mount, this is a non issue.
3. Continue with the full mod, which requires more time and more cutting, and is a bit more difficult getting everything back together.
So continuing first with Option 2. As you can see, we don’t have much space to work with.
So we will need to use the box cutter to remove the extension and mounting for the camera pod.
Here you can see both halves of the main case with the extension and mounting for the camera pod cleanly removed. You can use the dikes to clip away any excess plastic. After this, you can skip forward to Option 3 if you plan to complete the full mod. So no need to reassemble yet.
Here you can see the base of the 808 lens fits inside the main camera case. Bonus!
A quick view from the front.
There is also enough wiggle room to angle the lens down a few degrees.
Here is the new lens vs. the old one side by side for comparison.
Here is an example of how to mount the camera using rubber bands. Please note however, I do not approve of this method as it does not look very durable. I just used this for a quick test flight to see the difference in FPV flight. I would recommend using some Velcro tape, which you probably already have if you are using a custom anti-jello mount.
Just a shot from the bottom for example. Again, I recommend using some Velcro tape or something more secure.
So you can stop here, or continue on to option 3 to complete the mod.
As we are going to flip the circuit board over, we will need to cut a notch for the SD Card Slot. Simply flip the top of the main case over, then mark where you will need to cut a new slot. Please notice, the new slot will be located where the power cable previously came out.
Then you will need to cut off this alignment pin from the bottom half of the main case.
Finally, you will need to cut a new slot for the antenna cable on the top half of the main case. And remove these three tabs from the inside to make room for the components on the circuit board..
After that, you are ready to reassemble the case with the circuit board flipped over. Notice the power cable is now coming out of the old SD Card Slot.
And voilà, the end result.
Now, to get my entire garage door which is 280cm(110″) wide into view, I needed to stand only 90cm(35.4″) back.
Using an online calculator, I was able to approximate a 114.6° FOV. Which is less than 5% out of tolerance of the advertised 120°. With my own measurements being within 5% tolerance, I’ll take that!
Credit to Cleave Books at http://www.cleavebooks.co.uk/scol/calrtri.htm
- Much better FOV, I can now fly a lot better using the screen alone for FPV. I am still a beginner with FPV though, so I have been keeping it in beginner mode to practice. I want to eventually do the Google Cardboard hack/mod, and buy a $20 pair of plastic Google Cardboard goggles, cut out the lenses, and mount the LCD where you would put the phone.
- Again, as the FOV of this lens exceeds 100°, you will notice a bit of a Full-Frame Fisheye Effect.
- Also, depending on how bright it is outside, the sky can get an orange hue to it, and skin can get a blue tint to it. For me, not really the end of the world. I have over 10 hours total flight time with this drone practicing mostly precision style flight. It was time for something new. Plus, you can go back, please see the links below to order a replacement camera.
|JXD 509G Replacement Camera
Buy Now: $33.99 from Amazon
Buy Now: $24.99 from BangGood
So all in all, I am pretty impressed with the end results.
Questions? Comments? Let me know what you think.